The Journal

Field notes from Afar and beyond

Plan your journey into Afar: when to visit, what to pack, and how to understand the volcanoes, salt country and communities of the Danakil. Alongside these guides, explore the culture and historic routes of wider Ethiopia.

Latest Dispatch

PlanningJune 18, 20262 min read

When to visit Afar and the Danakil Depression

Timing an Afar expedition means planning around heat, daylight and the confirmed route. Start with the cooler season, then build the rest of your Ethiopian journey around it.

Everything we have written down

Six essays and counting, filed by what they are actually useful for.

PracticalApril 22, 20262 min read

What to pack for an Afar and Danakil expedition

Prepare for heat, uneven ground and basic camps in Afar, with a separate layer of clothing if your journey continues into the northern highlands.

Responsible TravelApril 3, 20262 min read

Responsible travel in Afar: people beyond the landscape

Afar is home, a workplace and a cultural landscape. Respectful visits begin with local guidance, consent and an understanding of the salt economy.

DestinationsOctober 10, 20262 min read

Dallol: reading the colours of the Danakil

Look beyond the photograph to understand Dallol as a changing geothermal landscape, visited with local guidance as part of a Danakil expedition.

DestinationsOctober 10, 20262 min read

Erta Ale: what to expect from the volcano visit

The approach, the camp and the changing volcano all shape an Erta Ale visit. Plan for the experience without expecting a guaranteed lava display.

DestinationsOctober 10, 20262 min read

Lake Assale and Lake Afdera: two sides of Afar’s salt country

The salt plain at Lake Assale and the waters of Lake Afdera reveal different connections between landscape, livelihoods and the Danakil route.

PlanningOctober 10, 20262 min read

Starting in Semera: how to plan your Danakil expedition

Coordinate your arrival, choose a realistic pace and understand the camp arrangements before setting out from the gateway to Afar.

DestinationsMay 30, 20262 min read

Lalibela at dawn: how to see the rock churches properly

Most visitors arrive at ten in the morning and see a monument. Arrive at five and you see a living city instead.

PlanningOctober 10, 20262 min read

Planning a northern Ethiopia journey: choose depth over distance

Build a wider Ethiopian journey around the places that matter to you, with time for the highlands, historic sites and lake country.

The Letter

One letter a season, no more than that

Festival dates worth planning around, new lodges we have actually slept in, and the occasional honest word about where not to go this month.

Speak With a Designer

Read something that changed your mind?

Most of these essays started as an answer to a guest question. Ask us yours and it may well become the next one.

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Plan My Journey Browse Expeditions

Our Expeditions

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Danakil & Gheralta

Northern Ethiopia Grand Horizon

Our Destinations

Danakil Depression

Dallol

Gheralta

Lalibela

Field notes from Afar and beyond

When to visit Afar and the Danakil Depression

Everything we have written down

What to pack for an Afar and Danakil expedition

Responsible travel in Afar: people beyond the landscape

Dallol: reading the colours of the Danakil

Erta Ale: what to expect from the volcano visit

Lake Assale and Lake Afdera: two sides of Afar’s salt country

Starting in Semera: how to plan your Danakil expedition

Lalibela at dawn: how to see the rock churches properly

Planning a northern Ethiopia journey: choose depth over distance

One letter a season, no more than that

Read something that changed your mind?

Afar Horizon AI Guide